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Best of Koh Samet, Thailand

Once the doyen of backpacker destinations, today Koh Samet shares its charms with a wider audience. The sandy shores, cosy coves and aquamarine waters attract ferry-loads of Bangkokians looking to party each weekend, while tour groups pack out many resorts. Fire-juggling shows and beach barbecues are nightly events on the northern beaches, but the southern parts of the island are far more secluded and sedate. Despite being the closest major island to Bangkok, Ko Samet remains surprisingly underdeveloped, with a thick jungle interior crouching beside the low-rise hotels.

Even though Ko Samet is only a few kilometers from the mainland, the island with its micro-climate (the driest archipelago in Thailand) gets much less rainfall than the rest of Eastern Thailand. The rainy season is May to September but even then it still has significantly less rain than the other islands in Thailand. Tourists should, however, be careful of occasional storms.

It is believed that once upon a time, Ko Samet was the home of pirates and that to this very day there are still lost treasures buried somewhere on the island. Thailand's legendary poet Sunthorn Phu was the first one to put this island on the map when he set his classical epic there, Phra Aphai Manee "The Story of Princes, Saga, Mermaids and Giants".

Even though Bangkokians had known about the beauty of Ko Samet for decades before, the Thai government put this island off limits and restricted overnight stay there until 1981. In that year, on 1st October, the Forestry Department of Thailand declared Ko Samet and its surroundings to be a National Park.

Most of Ko Samet, including all the good parts, is part of Khao Laem Ya-Mu Ko Samet National Park and thus has an entry fee. Thais pay 40 baht for adults, 20 baht for children (current as of October 2015); foreigners pay 200 baht for adults, 100 baht for children (current as of October 2015). This two-tier pricing policy is applicable to all national parks. If you can explain, however, that you actually live or work in Thailand, then you may not have to pay the "tourist" price. One excuse for the difference is that "Thai citizens pay taxes". If you are a teacher and work in Thailand you may bring out some form of Thai ID - Driver's License, Teachers card or something like that and you will get the Thai fee. It seems like the fee is only during peak tourist season, as several tourists walk in and out without buying the pass.

If your ferry arrives at the main pier and you take a songtheaw to the beaches, there will be a stop at the main ticket checkpoint. The journey from the pier to the town centre is a fairly short stroll, taking less than ten minutes. If your ferry arrives at one of the beaches, an officer will collect the fee as you step out of the surf. Note that there is plenty of foot traffic in and out of the park to the 7-Eleven, ATM or other shops and restaurants and if you have no bags you can nonchalantly walk into the park without anyone checking your ticket. There is a road via the temple which avoids the checkpoint entirely. Note: some bungalows might give the impression that the entry fee is included in their booking, but it is not. You may also be asked to pay the park entry fee when boarding the ferry on the mainland, but if you mention you are staying outside the park boundaries they won't make you pay.

Sai Kaew Villa, has clean and serviced bungalows and some concrete bunker style accommodation starting at 700 baht (fan, no breakfast) up to the 3,000 baht price range (A/C) set among well groomed gardens. Their large dining and evening beach restaurant on Haat Sai Kaew serves good food and the staff is friendly. They are a two minute walk from the 7-11 and Internet cafes.

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